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There are numerous methods to install frets but this is the method that I have settled on using (for now). This method is efficient in that there is seldom a need to dress or level frets after they are installed. I prefer to install new frets on a new fingerboard, that is already attached to the neck and the neck is attached to the body. This is done after the finishing process is completed.
The majority of my set up work is performed on a short L shaped extension, which is C-clamped, to the end of my main 10' work bench
The extension is constructed from 3/4" particle board with two 1" x 3" boards glued to the bottom side for rigidity
There are several
1/4"-20 T-Nuts installed, from the bottom, for various body shapes and
sizes. The T-Nuts are for various, 1/4"-20 threaded rods, hold down clamps
and adjustable neck supports
All clamps and cauls have cork pads to protect the finish The four cauls beneath the upper and lower bouts are cork lined as well. They are sized so that the neck is parallel to the table top
The neck is supported by three adjustable rods and blocks. Each block is raised until it just barely touches the underside of the neck but doesn't deflect it. The end of the headstock is supported by wood blocks and wood shims, then it is clamped down from above. Now the body and neck are held very securely.
Draw a series of parallel lines, on the fingerboard, the entire length of it. I use a Berrol brand silver pencil which shows up very easily on Rosewood or Ebony finger boards. Then apply three strips of 3/4" masking tape on the top on each side of the fingerboard extension. Cover the top with a protective mat. I use padded drawer liners or scrap linoleum with a cut out for the fingerboard extension. You're now ready to sand the fingerboard flat. Most fingerboards will have small waves in it due to the machining process or unevenness from the glue and varying clamp pressure during assembly. To sand the fingerboard level, I use a piece of 1" x 2" steel tubing with sandpaper attached to it. One side has 80-grit sandpaper and the other side has 120-grit. Once in a while you will get lucky and all you will need is the 120 grit but most often I am not that lucky and have to use 80-grit first. Sand until all of the lines are removed
Some builders, my self included, prefer to sand a few thousandths of taper in their finger board from the 14th to the 20th fret. Draw more lines from the 9th fret to the 20th fret. Put three layers of 3/4" masking tape on the 9th fret
Cover half of the sandpaper with 3 layers of newspaper
Now sand the lines off until they reach the 14th fret and stop. This "fall-away" taper will eliminate any possible buzzes at the upper registers. Vacuum the dust off of the fingerboard. Clean out any finish that may have accumulated in the fingerboard slots. I use an Exacto saw blade. It is narrower that the fret slot so you will have to make a couple of passes. I saw one side at a time, on the push stroke from one side, pushing from the outside to the inside of the fingerboard. Then do the other side. If you try to do both at once you run the risk of flaking finish off of the opposite side of the neck
Use a small 3 cornered needle file and put a small bevel on the fret slots. I use two light strokes on each slot. It doesn't take much.
Sand the entire fingerboard with 320 grit sandpaper and vacuum dust off. Now the guitar is placed on some nice clean soft carpet. The neck is supported with a 25 pound bag of shotgun shell shot that rests in a small shallow wood box. Thoroughly clean the fret wire with Naptha and wipe with a clean rag. Pre-bend fret wires with a Stew Mac fret bender pliers or a [home made] rolling bender (pic 35 & 36). Cut all of the fret wire so it is 3/16" longer on each side of the fingerboard and place in an organizer (block of wood with holes drilled in it)
Other necessary tools are a plastic faced hammer, flush cutters, a steel auto body "dolly", Stew Mac's finger board oil and a rag. I also use a headband magnifier, as my eyes are pretty bad.
Wipe on a "liberal" amount of fingerboard oil on the fingerboard and bridge. Allow it to soak in for a minute and then wipe off the excess
Support the working area with the bag of shot and tap in one edge of the fret wire, leaving it overhand 3/16" then tap in the opposite end of the wire. Now tap in the fret wire, with several light blows, working from each side toward the center. Alternate blows from end to end working toward the center. As you work inward this not only seats the wire vertically but also puts a slight horizontal set in the wire locking it in place in the wood fibers. The Stew Mac FB oil lubricates the wire, allowing it to go in easier and I also believe that as the solvents evaporate that the oils will harden and also help to hold the wire in place. I have used Hide glue and Titebond but the water based glues seem to swell up and induce more back bow into the necks. I have also experimented with CA but it's a pain to remove if you get sloppy. The dry method also works but I seem to have more success with this method for reasons unbeknown to me? After the fret is hammered in and seated all the way across the fingerboard, tap the overhanging ends down slightly. This seems to really ensure that the ends don't lift up
When you get to the 14th fret (assuming this is a 14 fret neck), only lightly seat the rest of the remaining frets.
Now you will need to use the auto body "dolly"
. If you don't have one you can substitute a heavy block of steel or a large hammer head or a small bag of shot. Hold the "dolly" inside of the sound hole, directly beneath the fret and hold upward pressure on it. Hammer the frets in, one at a time and bend the ends over
As you hammer the frets in excess oil will squish out so get a rag out and wipe all of the excess oil up .
This photo shows approximately how far the ends should be bent over .
Using a pair of flush cutting end nippers cut the excess fret wire off
As you cut apply DOWNWARD pressure on the cutters, with one hand, while squeezing the handles with the other hand .
Catch the scrap with your hand while applying downward pressure. It only takes one little scrap like this
to ruin your back and cause you another month of delay while you repair the scratch. Gee how did I know that?
Now it's time to dress the ends. Here are the two files that you will need.
One "flush" file is used first to file all fret ends flush with the fingerboard
. The next bevel file is used to file a 20* - 30* bevel on the ends of the frets.
Both of these files will leave very small burrs on the ends of the frets. These will need removed
by a few light strokes of a needle file. I use a needle file that is a flat three sided file with two sides ground off of the back. The face that has the file on it has its two edges ground smooth so it doesn't dig into the fingerboard wood. This eliminates the need to mask off the area around the frets as it will not mar the wood.
Vacuum off the fingerboard again. I know this may sound redundant but remember these fine metal shavings can wreak havoc on a fresh finish. Lightly sand the fret ends, and edge of the fingerboard with 320 and 600 grit sandpaper.
The next step is to fill the open fret slot gaps. I use a lacquer burn in stick for this task. Wipe off the fingerboard and your ready for the nut, tuners and strings.
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